Alli Rainey
Climbing since 1992, Harvard graduate ('96) Alli Rainey lasted for a single year working a real-world job before she chose to take a different route, becoming a rock climber and freelance writer. As a climber, Alli’s accomplishments include redpoints/first female ascents of several 5.14a's and more than 60 5.13’s up to 5.13d (including many unrepeated first ascents and first female ascents), onsights of more than 200 5.12’s up to 5.12d, bouldering V9, and winning and placing highly in numerous local, regional, and national bouldering competitions. Alli’s climbing sponsors include Bonnie's Balms, Clif Bar, Flashed, Flex-Power, Native Eyewear, Petzl, prAna, Rocky Mountain Sunscreen and Scarpa. As a writer, to date Alli has completed several full-length book projects, including Wyoming: An Explorer's Guide, published in spring 2010. She has also written numerous articles for a variety of magazines and journals, including Rocky Mountain Sports, Men's Fitness, Rock & Ice, Climbing, Alpinist, Gripped, American Alpine News, and Boulder Magazine, among many others.
Latest Articles
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Rock Climbing Tantrums, Spray and Other Crag Noise Pollution
Disruptive climbers at the crag can ruin other climbers' days. Regulate your noise levels and manage your sport climbing frustration. Remember to have fun.
Dec 6, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Rock Climbing Weight-Training Exercises: Rows and Wide-Grip Rows
Rows and wide-grip rows help develop some of the primary muscle groups employed when you're on overhanging terrain. Learn how to do rows and wide-grip rows.
Nov 5, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Rock Climbing Etiquette Tips – Don't Be a Route Hogger
Be considerate of others wanting to try the route you're climbing. Following a few simple guidelines can keep everyone at a crowded crag relatively happy.
Oct 1, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Rock Climbing Technique Drills: Pacing, Regripping and Mantras
Make your time in the climbing gym and on warm-up and cool-down routes outside more constructive with drills that address pacing, regripping and mantras.
Sep 4, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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The Effects of Sleep Deprivation on Rock Climbing Performance
Learn how missing out on a good night's right can impact your next rock climbing day and how much sleep you need for peak athletic performance on the rock.
Aug 3, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Climbing Resistance Exercises for the Weight Room: Lat Pull-Downs
The lat pull-down is an excellent weight-training exercise for climbers. Learn why and how to perform lat pull-downs, including climbing-specific workouts.
Jul 5, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Fixed & Used Rock Climbing Gear on Sport Climbs – Leave or Take?
Fixed gear on sport routes as a rule should stay where it is. Bail biners are an exception. Learn when it's ok to remove a carabiner and when it's not.
Jun 19, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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How Drinking Alcohol Can Impact Your Rock Climbing Performance
Is consuming alcohol hurting your rock climbing? Learn about alcohol's potential effects on climbing performance and how to identify a drinking problem.
May 26, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Caffeine – A Part of Performance Sports Nutrition for Climbers?
Learn potential benefits and side effects of caffeine for climbing performance. Consider whether caffeine belongs in your performance sports nutrition plan.
Feb 24, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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Simple Guidelines for How to Grade a Climbing Route Correctly
A route's grade should reflect an honest, consensus assessment of a climbing route's difficulty. Route grades shouldn't be used to inflate or deflate egos.
Feb 18, 2011
- Alli Rainey
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