“Mixed climbing is typically a winter sport based on using your ice axes and crampons on rock and ice,” explains mixed climber Gordon McArthur, 30, of Cranbrook, BC, Canada. “It differs [from rock climbing] as you have a lot of sharp objects flying around all the time. Aside from that, it actually lends itself quite nicely when crossing over into rock climbing, as the movement can be similar as well as usage of power and endurance.”
In mixed climbing, as McArthur notes, the climber’s basic equipment mirrors the equipment used in ice climbing. However, the mixed climber is prepared to use his ice climbing tools – axes and crampons – for dry tooling as well, or balancing his way up edges and features on rock faces. Mixed climbing usually involves both disciplines – rock and ice climbing – encountered on the same route, demanding that the climber transition from rock to ice or ice to rock at some point.
Getting Into Mixed Climbing
How does a person decide to start mixed climbing? For McArthur, now a top Canadian mixed climber, his foray started with beginning to rock climb at the age of 16. He discovered mixed climbing almost a decade later at the Canmore Ice Climbing Festival. Since then, he’s climbed some of the world’s hardest mixed climbs and competed strongly in mixed climbing competitions around the globe. His achievements of note include:
- Cryophobia (M8+/WI4-6+; 225 meters)
- Onsighting everything at Bear Spirit in one day (seven climbs ranging from M7 to M9+)
- Equipping/first-going two M8+ routes in Bull River Canyon
- Cave Man (M10)
- Phyllis Diller (M10+/11-)
- Fire Roasted (M10+)
- 2nd place and 3rd place, Canmore Ice Climbing Festival
- 1st place, Monument Mixed Master
- 9th place, Ouray Ice Festival
- 19th in group at World Cup, 2010
As for what kind of person he thinks might enjoy mixed climbing, McArthur states, “Anyone who loves to climb and has the patience to put the time in [would enjoy it].I love mixed climbing because of the movement, because of how deep you need to go within yourself for trust and mental toughness. I love how this sport pushes me in every way, whether physically or mentally.”
He notes, however, that mixed climbing can be frustrating at times due to how conditions-dependent the sport is – the ice has to be solid for mixed climbing to be possible – as well as the difficulty in finding a reliable mixed climbing partner at times.
Mixed Climbing Season and Safety
The mixed climbing season in most parts of the world starts in November and runs through April, depending on the formation of ice. However, a mixed climber can practice dry tooling year round, both outside or at an indoor climbing facility that allows it, since it’s “mixed climbing but without the ice,” as McArthur explains.
Mixed climbing can be relatively safe, he continues, “as long as you’re aware." He notes the proliferation of sharp objects (ice climbing tools), along with the potential for falling ice chunks, as well as good gear placements (either fixed bolts or removable gear) and solid belaying techniques as important safety considerations. To begin mixed climbing safely, a mixed climbing lesson from a reputable guide service is recommended.
Mixed Climbing Training
As with other forms of climbing, training factors greatly into becoming a top mixed climbing contender like McArthur. Along with maximizing his time on outdoor mixed climbing routes, McArthur also logs long hours of dry tooling with his ice climbing tools at his home climbing gym in Cranbrook. He also does one-arm dead hangs, front levers, pull-ups, one-arm pulls, campusing, lunges, specific mixed climbing techniques (called figure fours and figure nines), and cardio workouts.
Another key component of McArthur’s mixed climbing training involves “focusing on the mental game.” He works as hard on honing his mental skills as he does on his physical training. In addition, McArthur is coached by another Canadian mixed climber (and all-around athlete) of note, Will Gadd.
When It’s Not Mixed Climbing Season
When the mixed climbing season ends, McArthur focuses on other forms of climbing – sport climbing in particular. This helps him stay strong for the next mixed climbing season. He also spends more time hiking with his wife and two young daughters, as well as on his successful graphic design business. In addition, he plans, along with a business partner, to open up a new, state-of-the-art indoor climbing gym in Cranbrook, BC, Canada in the near future.
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